The conference ended with a grand Gala, live music for our listening pleasure, performances by some of our favorite teachersand hugs, kisses and good-byes to new-found friends . I think we are all happy but exhausted! (photos of Tamar Bar-Gil and Fifi Ness, who ended her performance in a full split--I think she's about my age!)
Today is my day for sightseeing and moving to a new part of town. Early to rise, pay my bill and be on my
way. There’s a shocker in my bill….I haven’t spoken to my husband all week, and missing him, called at 3:00 a.m. (Istanbul). We chatted for about 40 minutes. The charge was 200 euro (about $300). I almost had a heart attack. For that we should have had phone sex. :-)
My driver, Moussa, a kindly older man, collects me to meet the others on my tour. It’s about a 20 minute ride along the Bosphorous to the heart of the city. Smiling, he tells me we are traveling on Kennedy Caddes. The waterfront is one beautiful continuous park, constructed for all to enjoy. It reminds me of India Point Park in Providence…but it’s about 25 km long! Families are picnicking, joggers running, others sitting under trees reading. It’s a beautiful sunny day which makes the tulip gardens seem particularly brilliant. Periodically there are exercise ‘stations’ with equipment similar to ones you find in a health club. At each station are several people taking advantage of the equipment. The Turks seem very health-minded. I’m impressed that the state has set aside so much prime land for public use and can’t help but feel that in the states it would be privately owned for just a few to enjoy. The view of the Bosphorous here is just spectacular.
Shortly I meet up with the tour group, only six of us and quickly strike it up with an interesting couple, the Z
aman’s from Pakistan. Both are doctors, he specializing in liver transplants and she, a pathologist who also teaches. They have lived in numerous countries, recently in Ireland and now in Dubai and are engaging and fun company. Our guide, Serkan, is a walking encyclopedia. He is very knowledgeable about the history and intricacies of each place we visit, both fact and folklore, and immensely proud of his Turkish heritage. He takes great pains at each stop to give as much info as possible and I’m a bit overwhelmed by the history. America is easy – only 200 years old. Here we are talking about a civilization -- and buildings-- dating BC.
Today’s tour takes us to some of most famous sights in Istanbul, Topkapi Palace, Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque), the Hippodrome, Basilica Cistern, a modern rug company and the Grand Bazaar.
Topkapi Palace is breathtaking. Originally the seat of power of the ancient world, our tour guide also describes it as the modern Vatican. The Palace is huge, though not tall, mostly one floor with various courtyards. Ambassadors
and royalty from all over the ancient world gathered here, bringing eye-popping jewel-encrusted gifts, which have survived the ages and can be viewed today. There is one 'Chamber of the Sacred Relics' containing various relics of the Prophet Mohammed and also several bones of John the Baptist. It's very moving to be in the presence of these antiquities. As we pass through the Chamber I'm aware of incredibly soothing music in the background and assume it's a CD. It's not. As we exit we pass a cleric who is chanting Koranic verse in the most beautiful voice. Because of the crowds, I wasn't able to see the harem, a separate tour itself, maybe tomorrow.
Walls and ceilings are covered with beautiful, colorful, intricately decorated tiles. I want to stop and stare but am surrounded by thousands. A river of tourists from all over the world ebbs through the rooms, and I'm pushed along with them. We see as much as we can in the allotted time. It's just impossible to take it all in or wrap my brain around it. I can only imagine what it was like in the 1400's. The upside of the tour is that you get a taste of everything...the downside is, it only whets your appetite!
From the pal
ace we walk to the Hippodrome...sounds like a football stadium. It actually was but was also the sight of ancient chariot races and could hold 100,000 people. There's not much left of it today, it's incredibly beautiful columns were re-used in the cistern (more later). On thing that does remain is an impressive Egyptian obelisk in the center, decorated with hieroglyphics and built in 1500 BC, yes BC, in Luxor. It looks to be about 75 feet tall and is a commanding presence, beautifully preserved. Unbelievably, it is only 1/3 of it's original height. The original must have taken your breath away.
O
n to the underground Basilica Cistern, built around 530. The cistern used marble columns from the Hippodrome, which in turn support beautifully arched and domed brick ceilings. Four columns support each dome...and there are 336 columns. In those days the cistern could hold 100,000 tons of water for the city above..mostly for the use of the Sultan's palace. At some point it fell into disuse, and kind of like our rivers in Providence, was paved over. The cistern was re-discovered in the 1960's and restored as an historic site. Today you can walk through the large underground cavern via walkways and it's beautifully lit, breathtaking, really.
No visit to Istanbul would be complete without a stop at the rug-maker's. Our guide happily obliges, probably his cousin's store, but nevertheless, it's interesting and informative. The showroom is beautiful and modern with hundreds of rugs rolled up and standing along the walls. Nattily dressed in a gray pinstripe suit, Eduard introduces himself, offers us coffee or tea and begins teaching us about rugs, assuring us immediately that he is there as our teacher, there is absolutely no pressure to buy. Hah!
The talk is really interesting. Each region of Turkey produces it's own designs and uses specific colors. Some are rich earthy colors with geometric designs, others are pastels with floral designs. Each is hand made by women during the winter months...in the summer they are usually farming...and one rug can take months to make; you can see the individual knots on the back of hand-made rugs. They're made with wool/cotton or silk/cotton; cotton/cotton are called 'kilms.'
Eduard's associate theatrically pulls out rug after rug in great dramatic fashion so we can see different styles, sizes and colors. Naturally, the sales pitch follows, starting with the old...'if you could choose any rug for your home, which one would it be?' My reply 'if you're giving one away, I'll take that one.' After that, there was no pressure on me. They probably figured that being a woman, alone, I wouldn't buy. Actually, I wanted one so when he was done trying to sell to the others (who didn't buy) we started negotiating and I left with a beautiful prayer-size rug with a Tree of Life symbol to place inside my front door. Happily for Bill, I didn't buy the $5000 one that I really liked!
Our last stop was to the Grand Bazaar. From at least a block away is a sea of people undulating toward it's entryway arch. With more than 4,000 shops, the Bazaar is a complete sensory experience of sight and sound. If you glance at an item the shopkeeper is by your side waiting to haggle. I purchase a small camel and find the shopkeeper to haggle in good spirits. It's fun... 'you want it for free!' he says, 'if I give you that, I'll have no money left' I reply. We finally agree on a price and I leave with my cute little camel. Over my shoulder is the gift bag 
emblazoned with the logo from the conference. I am expecting to fill it with goodies. Other dancers had obviously been to the Bazaar before me because shopkeepers begin shouting Belly Dancer! Belly Dancer!!! Come here, I have just what you want!
Unfortunately for me, my timing at the Bazaar is bad. Being sleep deprived and having been walking for hours, I just don't have the energy for this much fun. I leave, hoping to be back tomorrow, and head for my new hotel and a nap.
Today is my day for sightseeing and moving to a new part of town. Early to rise, pay my bill and be on my
way. There’s a shocker in my bill….I haven’t spoken to my husband all week, and missing him, called at 3:00 a.m. (Istanbul). We chatted for about 40 minutes. The charge was 200 euro (about $300). I almost had a heart attack. For that we should have had phone sex. :-)My driver, Moussa, a kindly older man, collects me to meet the others on my tour. It’s about a 20 minute ride along the Bosphorous to the heart of the city. Smiling, he tells me we are traveling on Kennedy Caddes. The waterfront is one beautiful continuous park, constructed for all to enjoy. It reminds me of India Point Park in Providence…but it’s about 25 km long! Families are picnicking, joggers running, others sitting under trees reading. It’s a beautiful sunny day which makes the tulip gardens seem particularly brilliant. Periodically there are exercise ‘stations’ with equipment similar to ones you find in a health club. At each station are several people taking advantage of the equipment. The Turks seem very health-minded. I’m impressed that the state has set aside so much prime land for public use and can’t help but feel that in the states it would be privately owned for just a few to enjoy. The view of the Bosphorous here is just spectacular.
Shortly I meet up with the tour group, only six of us and quickly strike it up with an interesting couple, the Z
aman’s from Pakistan. Both are doctors, he specializing in liver transplants and she, a pathologist who also teaches. They have lived in numerous countries, recently in Ireland and now in Dubai and are engaging and fun company. Our guide, Serkan, is a walking encyclopedia. He is very knowledgeable about the history and intricacies of each place we visit, both fact and folklore, and immensely proud of his Turkish heritage. He takes great pains at each stop to give as much info as possible and I’m a bit overwhelmed by the history. America is easy – only 200 years old. Here we are talking about a civilization -- and buildings-- dating BC.Today’s tour takes us to some of most famous sights in Istanbul, Topkapi Palace, Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque), the Hippodrome, Basilica Cistern, a modern rug company and the Grand Bazaar.
Topkapi Palace is breathtaking. Originally the seat of power of the ancient world, our tour guide also describes it as the modern Vatican. The Palace is huge, though not tall, mostly one floor with various courtyards. Ambassadors
and royalty from all over the ancient world gathered here, bringing eye-popping jewel-encrusted gifts, which have survived the ages and can be viewed today. There is one 'Chamber of the Sacred Relics' containing various relics of the Prophet Mohammed and also several bones of John the Baptist. It's very moving to be in the presence of these antiquities. As we pass through the Chamber I'm aware of incredibly soothing music in the background and assume it's a CD. It's not. As we exit we pass a cleric who is chanting Koranic verse in the most beautiful voice. Because of the crowds, I wasn't able to see the harem, a separate tour itself, maybe tomorrow.Walls and ceilings are covered with beautiful, colorful, intricately decorated tiles. I want to stop and stare but am surrounded by thousands. A river of tourists from all over the world ebbs through the rooms, and I'm pushed along with them. We see as much as we can in the allotted time. It's just impossible to take it all in or wrap my brain around it. I can only imagine what it was like in the 1400's. The upside of the tour is that you get a taste of everything...the downside is, it only whets your appetite!
From the pal
ace we walk to the Hippodrome...sounds like a football stadium. It actually was but was also the sight of ancient chariot races and could hold 100,000 people. There's not much left of it today, it's incredibly beautiful columns were re-used in the cistern (more later). On thing that does remain is an impressive Egyptian obelisk in the center, decorated with hieroglyphics and built in 1500 BC, yes BC, in Luxor. It looks to be about 75 feet tall and is a commanding presence, beautifully preserved. Unbelievably, it is only 1/3 of it's original height. The original must have taken your breath away.O
n to the underground Basilica Cistern, built around 530. The cistern used marble columns from the Hippodrome, which in turn support beautifully arched and domed brick ceilings. Four columns support each dome...and there are 336 columns. In those days the cistern could hold 100,000 tons of water for the city above..mostly for the use of the Sultan's palace. At some point it fell into disuse, and kind of like our rivers in Providence, was paved over. The cistern was re-discovered in the 1960's and restored as an historic site. Today you can walk through the large underground cavern via walkways and it's beautifully lit, breathtaking, really.No visit to Istanbul would be complete without a stop at the rug-maker's. Our guide happily obliges, probably his cousin's store, but nevertheless, it's interesting and informative. The showroom is beautiful and modern with hundreds of rugs rolled up and standing along the walls. Nattily dressed in a gray pinstripe suit, Eduard introduces himself, offers us coffee or tea and begins teaching us about rugs, assuring us immediately that he is there as our teacher, there is absolutely no pressure to buy. Hah!
The talk is really interesting. Each region of Turkey produces it's own designs and uses specific colors. Some are rich earthy colors with geometric designs, others are pastels with floral designs. Each is hand made by women during the winter months...in the summer they are usually farming...and one rug can take months to make; you can see the individual knots on the back of hand-made rugs. They're made with wool/cotton or silk/cotton; cotton/cotton are called 'kilms.'
Eduard's associate theatrically pulls out rug after rug in great dramatic fashion so we can see different styles, sizes and colors. Naturally, the sales pitch follows, starting with the old...'if you could choose any rug for your home, which one would it be?' My reply 'if you're giving one away, I'll take that one.' After that, there was no pressure on me. They probably figured that being a woman, alone, I wouldn't buy. Actually, I wanted one so when he was done trying to sell to the others (who didn't buy) we started negotiating and I left with a beautiful prayer-size rug with a Tree of Life symbol to place inside my front door. Happily for Bill, I didn't buy the $5000 one that I really liked!
Our last stop was to the Grand Bazaar. From at least a block away is a sea of people undulating toward it's entryway arch. With more than 4,000 shops, the Bazaar is a complete sensory experience of sight and sound. If you glance at an item the shopkeeper is by your side waiting to haggle. I purchase a small camel and find the shopkeeper to haggle in good spirits. It's fun... 'you want it for free!' he says, 'if I give you that, I'll have no money left' I reply. We finally agree on a price and I leave with my cute little camel. Over my shoulder is the gift bag 
emblazoned with the logo from the conference. I am expecting to fill it with goodies. Other dancers had obviously been to the Bazaar before me because shopkeepers begin shouting Belly Dancer! Belly Dancer!!! Come here, I have just what you want!Unfortunately for me, my timing at the Bazaar is bad. Being sleep deprived and having been walking for hours, I just don't have the energy for this much fun. I leave, hoping to be back tomorrow, and head for my new hotel and a nap.
No comments:
Post a Comment