Today is my day to visit Sim Moda Evi, one of the world's haute couture costume designers and I'm too excited to sleep. It's not far from the hotel, and I have a little map but can't seem to find it. I know I'm in the right block but despite walking back and forth and asking numerous people for assistance, no luck. :-( I'm ready to give up when I approach a young woman who decides it's her mission to find Sim Moda for me. How nice! She's bi-lingual, but even she has trouble. Eventually we find it, and I climb the four floors to their showroom/sewing center. Wow! I'm in belly dancer heaven. Glittery beads, gigantic rhinestones and eye-popping costumes in every imaginable color. The fabrics are lush and beautiful; the designs scrumptious.

I've already met the seamstresses at the Festival and they introduce me to their head designer who looks me over an says 'try this one.' The guy is a genius. The costume looks like it was made just for me...except it's mauve. 'I don't know about the color,' I hesitate. 'It's color no good for you, he says, we'll make what color you like...and, that skirt..we'll add chiffon gussets..you know, better for your shape.' I think I'm in love. We play with different colors, different chiffons, matching and re-matching....and as I write, there is a Sim Moda being made especially for me. I head out to the ATM to deplete my bank account. When I return he's already cutting my material. What an experience. :-)))

My plan today is to enjoy the sights and sounds of Istanbul as I wander down Istiklar. The streets are very clean. Street sweepers like we have here in the US pass every hour or so. Shop keepers are washing and cleaning their windows and the streets in front of their shops. I had even noticed that my cabbie kept a cloth handy and he'd wipe mirrors etc. when he had the chance. The Turks are very fastidious.

In addition, Istanbul has been designated as the 2010 European Capital of Culture. Strolling along Istiklir I come upon groups of street musicians, then, other groups of student artists who are oil painting for all to marvel at and enjoy. One elderly man sitting on a box chants, never looking up. Perhaps Koranic verses? His young grandson holds a microphone to his mouth so all passerby's can hear. The sights and sounds are electric.

There are lots of colorfully decorated shops where ice cream is made as you watch. Turkish ice cream looks like a big wad of dough which the ice cream maker continuously kneads, then puts in in an ice cream tub and kneads some more with a big rod. I treat myself to a small cone of lemon and it's delicious. It tastes nothing like the ice cream we're familiar with. It's cold but a bit chewy and doesn't melt in the cone, at least not faster than I eat it. The ice cream maker is gaily dressed and when I ask to take his picture, he pokes the big rod into the ice cream tub, pulls the whole thing out and poses for me.

Next stop, music. People in shops, restaurants and even cabbies get excited when I ask what music I'm hearing, and are happy to write the song or artist's names in my journal. I pass a group of music stores, select on, and go in armed with my journal. I assume I'm dealing with the owner because he's so eager to play different CDs for me. As it turns out he's just a clerk. But a really nice one! Ah, he keep saying, I know what you like -- as it turns out, Classical Turkish -- and I leave with five beautiful new CDs.

Istiklar goes on and on and stores are grouped according to specialty. I pass through a section of beautifully displayed scarves, another has different types of 'evil eyes,' each bringing it's own special good luck. The ones with turtles are for students, turtles signifying the slow, steady progress that learning takes, others are for success in business, some are for parents. For 7 TL you can buy a lot of good luck. Other stores specialize in nuts and candy. Displayed everywhere is Turkish Delight, a jelly-like cube rolled in powdered sugar that is the national candy; it thrills my sweet tooth. Yum.

In a while I find myself on a smaller streets of shops specializing in musical instruments. Doumbecs, ouds and other instruments hang in the windows; Istanbul cymbals are proudly displayed everywhere. Good for me! I'm looking for a nice set of Turkish zills. Sadly, there are none to be found, only cheap student ones. More shops, more shopping. I pass art stores and buy Bill a lovely watercolor of a sailboat with a mosque on the horizon and some old (looking) harem prints for me. I'm now in a part of town where the streets are of cobblestone and narrow and hilly; I even slip a couple of times when climbing a steep one, then realize I've been walking for hours and am very tired, sort of lost, and hungry.

Mmmm, food. Turkish food is delicious and healthy. Many small restaurants have their dishes displayed so just pointing to something that looks good can result in a satisfying meal. I choose something, maybe a stuffed zucchini in some kind of red sauce? Don't know. The chef offers fresh yogurt and rice with it. Sounds good...and it is. Delicious and I (again) clean my plate.
As I leave the chefs are delighted to pose in front of their foods and insist I send them their photo once I return to the states.

Well, I'm still lost and tired and it takes about an hour to find my way back to Hotel Londra and a sound nap.

I awake in time for, what else, dinner, and leave the hotel again. Each time I think that my trip can't get any better, it does. I'm wandering up an alley when I find a small restaurant and hear live music. The waiter invites me in and from what I can understand, it's a prix fixe dinner for 60TL. I'm only one person, I say, not too hungry. No problem, we'll work it out he indicates. We do all this through sign language and I have no idea what I'm agreeing to, but the music is realllly good. Four older musicians are playing some songs that sound familiar but many I've never heard. My waiter brings a mezza plate...'small one'...he says. It's enough for a complete dinner. Chicken, meat or fish, he asks. Chicken. Who knows what's next?

One of the musicians appears to speak a little English, so I decide to request a song. Do you know Shenaz Longa or Nehavet Longa? He looks incredulous. He translates to his friends and they become very animated. 'How you know this??? Shenaz Longa!!' I like Turkish music, I say, figuring I'll leave it at that. Suddenly, everyone is my best friend. My waiter begins speaking halting English, tells me about his children and writes the names of the mezza and the ingredients in my journal. A group having a party gets up to dance and the musicians motion for me to join them. Then they play Sultanyieh...do you know this one they ask? Wine arrives, compliments of my waiter and later, a mezza of dessert arrives 'on the house.' An extraordinary last night in Istanbul. I'm teary thinking of it.

Morning comes and time to say good-bye. It's my last hour in Istanbul and I'm on the 6th floor terrace of the Hotel Londra enjoying the view. Like Istanbul itself, the terrace is lovely, with trellised roses and lush plants and a view of both the ancient and modern. Noisy bumper to bumper streets run alongside the Mamara Sea. On the other side lies the Old city of Istanbul with it's many mosque spires reaching toward the heavens and beyond that the Bosphorous and a few of the hundreds of immense cargo ships that pass through it each day.

My bags are packed, the cab has arrived and I'm off to the airport for my 15 hour flight back home.

From Modern Elegance to Antique Opulence

My last days in Istanbul.

(With the loss of my journal, I'm posting these from home and from memory...)

...After leaving the Grand Bazaar I headed for my new hotel, The Grand Hotel de Londra, located across the Golden Horn, a body of water allegedly named because the Byzantines threw so many valuables into it during the Ottoman conquest, the waters 'glistened with gold'. I'm staying in a section called Beyoglu. Not a far ride from Istanbul's Old City, maybe 15 minutes. If the Sheraton Atakoy was the ultimate in modern elegance, the Londra is the ultimate in antique opulence.

The Londra was built late 1800's, and upon entering I'm transported to another era. A grand marble staircase with a carved, gilded and mahogany railing rises to meet huge stain-glass arched windows. Antiques abound and a lush, red, carpet covers the floors. Lavish antique chandeliers hang from the ceilings. Except for the staircase and a registration desk, the lobby is small, but it opens to another long, beautiful room with long, velvet curtains, an antique mahogany bar and tables and chairs appointed throughout the room. I can just picture turn-of-the-century Victorians lounging around. On one ancient desk is a computer with complete Internet access for all guests. Old meets new!

The front desk manager greets me warmly, but I have a concern...my driver, Moussa, had been taking me around all day. I gave a 25 TL tip. Was this enough? He smiles at me, raises his eyebrows and says 'for 25 TL I'd marry you!' I guess I'm okay.

My room is the opposite of the common rooms. The ultimate in simplicity. Two beds, the smallest shower I've ever seen, and a TV and phone. But it's only 40 TL a night (about $30), clean and comfy and I don't plan to spend any time in my room, so no problem. It does have these incredible old-style large windows, though, perhaps 8' high, which latch together. When I open them a refreshing sea breeze blows the curtains and sounds of the city float in.

By now it's dark and I'm hungry, but a little nervous to walk around town, a woman and alone. I don't have any idea where to go or what to expect. When asked, the hotel manager nods and says 'yeah, yeah, just around the corner!' like I'm not too bright. I don a head scarf which I've bought for just such an occasion and head out. Sure enough, the alley-way next to the hotel is lined with little restaurants, all with outdoor seating. It's a bit cool so each one has a large kerosene heater like we do here in the states. Mmmm, so many choices. After just a few hundred feet I find myself on a major pedestrian boulevard. It's called Istikal and is huge! and filled with people and shops, so I follow the crowd. I'm still nervous about being a woman and alone but notice that I'm the only one wearing a headscarf so I remove it. :-) I am the only woman alone, though.

Off Istikal is alley after alley lined with outdoor restaurants, so I explore, checking out the alleys and visiting the shops on Istiklar. There's a different feel here than in the old city. Shop owners don't try to push their wares, nor do they particularly like to haggle, much. They'll drop prices, maybe 25%, but that's it. Restaurateurs stand outside their restaurants and gently wave me in, but no pressure. I select one. They're surprised I'm alone and seat me inside the open doorway, but facing the street so I can observe but not be obvious. How nice! I'm completely comfortable. My waiter brings a large selection of colorful appetizers, covered in saran, for me to select from. I choose some kind of pretty white bean dish with red sauce. 'Only one!?' He's surprised. 'Well, I'm only one...I'll have a main course too.' As I look around, each table has multiple appetizers and everyone shares. The beans are DELICIOUS as is the mixed grill he brings later. Each piece of lamb, meat and chicken melt in my mouth. I eat everything and enjoy a couple of glasses of Turkish wine, too. By the time I leave at 10:30 the place is filling up. Like many Europeans, dinner in Turkey is late.

I return to the hotel thinking, can it get any better than this? But tomorrow is my day to shop for a costume, so I bet it will!

Good-bye Conference, Hello Istanbul

The conference ended with a grand Gala, live music for our listening pleasure, performances by some of our favorite teachersand hugs, kisses and good-byes to new-found friends . I think we are all happy but exhausted! (photos of Tamar Bar-Gil and Fifi Ness, who ended her performance in a full split--I think she's about my age!)

Today is my day for sightseeing and moving to a new part of town. Early to rise, pay my bill and be on my way. There’s a shocker in my bill….I haven’t spoken to my husband all week, and missing him, called at 3:00 a.m. (Istanbul). We chatted for about 40 minutes. The charge was 200 euro (about $300). I almost had a heart attack. For that we should have had phone sex. :-)

My driver, Moussa, a kindly older man, collects me to meet the others on my tour. It’s about a 20 minute ride along the Bosphorous to the heart of the city. Smiling, he tells me we are traveling on Kennedy Caddes. The waterfront is one beautiful continuous park, constructed for all to enjoy. It reminds me of India Point Park in Providence…but it’s about 25 km long! Families are picnicking, joggers running, others sitting under trees reading. It’s a beautiful sunny day which makes the tulip gardens seem particularly brilliant. Periodically there are exercise ‘stations’ with equipment similar to ones you find in a health club. At each station are several people taking advantage of the equipment. The Turks seem very health-minded. I’m impressed that the state has set aside so much prime land for public use and can’t help but feel that in the states it would be privately owned for just a few to enjoy. The view of the Bosphorous here is just spectacular.

Shortly I meet up with the tour group, only six of us and quickly strike it up with an interesting couple, the Zaman’s from Pakistan. Both are doctors, he specializing in liver transplants and she, a pathologist who also teaches. They have lived in numerous countries, recently in Ireland and now in Dubai and are engaging and fun company. Our guide, Serkan, is a walking encyclopedia. He is very knowledgeable about the history and intricacies of each place we visit, both fact and folklore, and immensely proud of his Turkish heritage. He takes great pains at each stop to give as much info as possible and I’m a bit overwhelmed by the history. America is easy – only 200 years old. Here we are talking about a civilization -- and buildings-- dating BC.

Today’s tour takes us to some of most famous sights in Istanbul, Topkapi Palace, Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque), the Hippodrome, Basilica Cistern, a modern rug company and the Grand Bazaar.

Topkapi Palace is breathtaking. Originally the seat of power of the ancient world, our tour guide also describes it as the modern Vatican. The Palace is huge, though not tall, mostly one floor with various courtyards. Ambassadors and royalty from all over the ancient world gathered here, bringing eye-popping jewel-encrusted gifts, which have survived the ages and can be viewed today. There is one 'Chamber of the Sacred Relics' containing various relics of the Prophet Mohammed and also several bones of John the Baptist. It's very moving to be in the presence of these antiquities. As we pass through the Chamber I'm aware of incredibly soothing music in the background and assume it's a CD. It's not. As we exit we pass a cleric who is chanting Koranic verse in the most beautiful voice. Because of the crowds, I wasn't able to see the harem, a separate tour itself, maybe tomorrow.

Walls and ceilings are covered with beautiful, colorful, intricately decorated tiles. I want to stop and stare but am surrounded by thousands. A river of tourists from all over the world ebbs through the rooms, and I'm pushed along with them. We see as much as we can in the allotted time. It's just impossible to take it all in or wrap my brain around it. I can only imagine what it was like in the 1400's. The upside of the tour is that you get a taste of everything...the downside is, it only whets your appetite!

From the palace we walk to the Hippodrome...sounds like a football stadium. It actually was but was also the sight of ancient chariot races and could hold 100,000 people. There's not much left of it today, it's incredibly beautiful columns were re-used in the cistern (more later). On thing that does remain is an impressive Egyptian obelisk in the center, decorated with hieroglyphics and built in 1500 BC, yes BC, in Luxor. It looks to be about 75 feet tall and is a commanding presence, beautifully preserved. Unbelievably, it is only 1/3 of it's original height. The original must have taken your breath away.

On to the underground Basilica Cistern, built around 530. The cistern used marble columns from the Hippodrome, which in turn support beautifully arched and domed brick ceilings. Four columns support each dome...and there are 336 columns. In those days the cistern could hold 100,000 tons of water for the city above..mostly for the use of the Sultan's palace. At some point it fell into disuse, and kind of like our rivers in Providence, was paved over. The cistern was re-discovered in the 1960's and restored as an historic site. Today you can walk through the large underground cavern via walkways and it's beautifully lit, breathtaking, really.

No visit to Istanbul would be complete without a stop at the rug-maker's. Our guide happily obliges, probably his cousin's store, but nevertheless, it's interesting and informative. The showroom is beautiful and modern with hundreds of rugs rolled up and standing along the walls. Nattily dressed in a gray pinstripe suit, Eduard introduces himself, offers us coffee or tea and begins teaching us about rugs, assuring us immediately that he is there as our teacher, there is absolutely no pressure to buy. Hah!

The talk is really interesting. Each region of Turkey produces it's own designs and uses specific colors. Some are rich earthy colors with geometric designs, others are pastels with floral designs. Each is hand made by women during the winter months...in the summer they are usually farming...and one rug can take months to make; you can see the individual knots on the back of hand-made rugs. They're made with wool/cotton or silk/cotton; cotton/cotton are called 'kilms.'

Eduard's associate theatrically pulls out rug after rug in great dramatic fashion so we can see different styles, sizes and colors. Naturally, the sales pitch follows, starting with the old...'if you could choose any rug for your home, which one would it be?' My reply 'if you're giving one away, I'll take that one.' After that, there was no pressure on me. They probably figured that being a woman, alone, I wouldn't buy. Actually, I wanted one so when he was done trying to sell to the others (who didn't buy) we started negotiating and I left with a beautiful prayer-size rug with a Tree of Life symbol to place inside my front door. Happily for Bill, I didn't buy the $5000 one that I really liked!

Our last stop was to the Grand Bazaar. From at least a block away is a sea of people undulating toward it's entryway arch. With more than 4,000 shops, the Bazaar is a complete sensory experience of sight and sound. If you glance at an item the shopkeeper is by your side waiting to haggle. I purchase a small camel and find the shopkeeper to haggle in good spirits. It's fun... 'you want it for free!' he says, 'if I give you that, I'll have no money left' I reply. We finally agree on a price and I leave with my cute little camel. Over my shoulder is the gift bag emblazoned with the logo from the conference. I am expecting to fill it with goodies. Other dancers had obviously been to the Bazaar before me because shopkeepers begin shouting Belly Dancer! Belly Dancer!!! Come here, I have just what you want!

Unfortunately for me, my timing at the Bazaar is bad. Being sleep deprived and having been walking for hours, I just don't have the energy for this much fun. I leave, hoping to be back tomorrow, and head for my new hotel and a nap.

Oooh, slept in today. Almost

These 4 a.m. nights are killing me. So I decided to skip the morning's first class and sleep late...but I couldn't. Wake up call was for 9:30, but I was up an hour before and excited to dance.

My last day at the festival. Wow. I've been up for 19-20 hours a day but the time just flies by and instead of being tired, I'm energized. Everything has been so wonderful, but most especially, the teachers. I took three extraordinary classes today: Asi Haskal (Egyptian Nostalgia), Serkan Tutar (Modern Drum Solo) and Filiz Dursam (Turkish Karsilama).

Asi Haskal's was a great way to start the day, and it turned out, one of my favorite classes. He's a good and funny teacher and took us through combinations reminiscent of Dina, Fifi Abdo, and Sula (?) Hamdi among others. He was hilarious in his impressions, especially of Hamdi. --- For those of you around my age, his impressions of the Hamdi reminded me of the ones Amir used to do of Fifi Abdo. Very, very funny.

During that class, I felt like I went 'home.' These are the dancers whose styles I learned from and love. There's a graceful, relaxed, coy elegance about them. Since coming back to dance I've been told, more than once, that my style is 'American Cabaret.' I thought, what the hell is that?? After today I think I'll call my style "Nostalgic." Modern Egyptian is different from what I learned and love. I think that it's more frenetic, with much more packed into each eight-count. It's fun to watch and there's the WOW factor, but for me, the older style of dance has more soul.

My next class was with Serkan Tutar, who's class I was REALLY looking forward to. He's an exceptional, energetic and fun dancer and a genuinely nice person. Today's class was Modern Style, and very fast, but again, very exciting. I danced for a while, learned some great new steps...then took lots of notes.

What has truly amazed me about the conference is the energey and accessibility of the teachers. Each teacher has been generous with their time, often posing for pictures with we students for 20 minutes after their hour-and-a-half class. Some even allow us to video their routines...and request that we PLEASE don't post them on YouTube. Some teachers don't want to be filmed, and I can't say as I blame them, but that's a discussion for another time. :-).

Each teacher seems especially happy to be here. We students feel like we're having the time of our lives, but in class, the teachers seem to be feeling the same way! They all teach with great humor and passion, but it's fun passion, not 'you'd better get this or else.'

My last class today was turkish Karslima with Filiz Dursun, who is gorgeous beyond belief and again an energetic, delightful and commanding teacher. Phaedra, I've been thinking that you'd absolutely love the Karshlimar classes. The footwork is so fast that even I had trouble. Armenian Tomzara is a piece of cake compared to this footwork. And again, my knees were asking...are you out of your mind???

Off I go now for a long hot shower before closing Gala. Live music tonight and Elena will be performing. Be still my heart!!

(closing night gala, Asi Haskal dancing in the back ground)

I'm moving to a new hotel tomorrow in Old Istanbul. It's called a 'gem,' and a 'classic.' I think the Turkish translation for that is 'no frills' so I doubt I'll have internet access again. The weather is beautiful, sunny and warm and I'm taking a nine-hour tour of all the sights. Shopping at the Grand Bazaar on Tuesday, then flying home on Wednesday.

Still much to do and see!

Bye for now,
Kanina

My Moment to Shine

So the time has come and I am getting ready for the Big Show. I'm putting on make and dressing in my new (spectacular) Turkish costume, and working very hard to quiet those ugly voices in my head that take pleasure in telling me that I'm too old, too fat, out of my league, blah, blah, blah. Like uninvited guests at a party, they arrive at the most inopportune time. I know they are ugly and useless, but they are LOUD. I trick the voices by deciding to think that Bill, Megan, Lizzy and all my students and friends will be in the audience cheering me on.

Although there's an AMAZING seven-piece Turkish band playing this eveing the performers must use CDs for their shows. Bummer. Although I don't like to dance to CD music, I do love the song I've chosen, Sheriham. I began choreographing it last summer for my dance company and recently re-choreographed it as my solo for this show.

While I love creating choreography, the only think I like less than performing to a CD...is performing choreography to a CD. I'm too easily distracted while on stage and anyway, how can I flirt with the audience when I'm trying to remember what my next sequence is? Some dancers excel at performing choreography but not me.

I run through my steps to refresh my memory, and soon I'm announced and on stage in the spotlight. Wow, the ballroom is full and the spotlight is is a little disorienting. I immediately and completely forget my choreography and do some intro steps while I try to remember what the heck I'm supposed to be doing. No luck. Then, I just start dancing, really dancing. No choreography, just improv. Song is beautiful and I'm having a great time. I spot a group of friends I've met from Japan and they are standing, clapping, while another of them is filming me. I go with the flow.

Leaving the stage, I'm completely unsure of myself. I don't really remember what I did but know it wasn't what I planned! Too bad, I had some really nice stuff worked into the choreography. :-) But the audience seems pleased, so that's good. As I leave the ballroom, heading upstairs to change, Fifi Ness chases after me, takes my face in her hands and says, in her thick accent, 'my dear, it was be-utiful. You have soul.' Then Elena was there telling me that she was so sorry she didn't get pictures, my dancing was 'elegant.' Today Serkan Tutar said 'Wow, I had no idea you were such a good dancer! (he must've seen me in class) Dancers have approached me all day saying the nicest things. I can't wait to see the DVD...I really have no idea what I did.

I'm getting all teary telling about it. Well, probably that and the fact that I was too excited to sleep. Lights off at 4:00 am, then up at 7:30 for today's classes.

I posted some photos on my Facebook page, and again, just wish you could be here to experience it all with me.

fondly,
Kanina

I'm Discovering New Parts of My Body...

...and mostly they're saying, what the hell do you think you're doing? HUH???? Places that I didn't know I had hurt. But wow, I feel GREAT!

It was a wonderful day!

Despite only 4 hours sleep, I was up at 7:30 to prepare for Yousry Sharif's 10 a.m. class. I really, really wanted to shower, stretch and eat before the day began. Luckily, Yousry also started us off with a proper warm-up. He's a terrific choreographer and a good, caring, teacher - very interested in making sure that you leave the class understanding what he's taught. Unfortunately, I'm a rotten student and can never learn the choreography while in class. Perhaps it makes me a better teacher because I can really empathize with students who struggle in class. I learn by watching and then practicing on my own. And I LOVE to watch Yousry dance. His Egyptian style is completely different than what I do and his choreography is exciting and fascinating. He comes alive when he dances (like all the greats do) and the crux is in his feel for the music. The class was heavily attended and I was happy to hang in the back.

Next class was with Fifi Ness. I had seen her on YouTube and fell in love with her style. She is earthy and soulful and this class was in Beledi. OMG, I felt like I was home. Unlike Yousry's, this class was very small, maybe 12 of us, so it was like having a private class with Fifi. She spoke no English and happily another student was able to translate for her when she needed help. She was very interested in us getting to 'feel' the music and took much time showing us hand and facial expressions and stressing the importance of emotion. She didn't do a choreography, rather, took us through various combinations. Right up my alley, since I can only remember three things at a time. I like dancing that way because I can really get into the music rather than worry about getting my feet in the right place.

My next class was supposed to be a veil fusion with Serkan, which I had been looking forward to. My knees and hips had a different idea. I think they were still pissed off about the 14 hour flight and didn't really like dancing on carpet anyway (all the ballrooms are carpeted), so I decided to be kind to my body and take a break. I'll take another class with Serkan tomorrow.

After break I took a class with Tamar bar-gil. Not realizing who she was, I had invited myself to breakfast at her table in the morning... it held a free chair and I didn't want to dine alone. She is somewhat reserved and doesn't speak much English, so I wasn't sure if I was intruding. Nonetheless, she was pleasant and quite beautiful with a long thick mane of curly hair. I was surprised to find, when arriving to class, that she was the teacher. And what a good teacher! Again it was a small but enthusiastic group, very much like a semi-private class. As I said, she speaks little English but was able to communicate clearly what she wanted. What a beautiful, sensual dancer! The class was in 'romantic' dance with much arm, hand and sensous hips. It was fun, fulfilling, and I learned many new ways to move. It was misnamed, though. It should have been called sexy dance; it was just beautiful to see and do.

With only three hours before my show I headed to the whirlpool and steam room to rejuvinate.

What A Day!!

I should be sleeping, but I just can't...I think I'll need lot's of help from you students in class next week!

Last night was the grand opening/Gala event. Like all Arabic/Turkish events...it started late. About 90 minutes late. Though, I think we should give the exhausted organizers a break...I heard that the hotel double-booked the ballroom, so Simone Guzman and her staff did superhuman work to pull it off. Anyway, when I worked in Arabic clubs all the time, starting late was the norm. If they said my show was at 9:00, it was at 10:30. Since I am often on 'Arabic time' myself, that worked well for me. :-) But it's been a while, so it took me by surprise. Back then, 90 minutes late felt right at home. Now, being 20 years older, midnight just doesn't have the same appeal, and I had to leave before all of the performers took the stage. Old age sucks. :-)

Of course, they saved the best till last...except Elena...who opened the show in her own elegant inimitable way... so I missed Yousry, Fifi Ness and Sergan Tutar. But given the caliber of the previous performers, I didn't feel cheated. The shows I did see were wonderful. Each instructor was spectacular in her/his own special way and my excitement for today's classes grew.

I've been meeting dancers from all over the world. Japan, Russia, Croatia, Bulgaria, Turkey (of course), Israel, Singapore, Belgium and Australia. Some I can converse with, others not. But all are very friendly and we're exchanging pictures and Facebook addresses. I had dinner with two Belgian students last night who study with Serkan Tutar - who later joined us. He is VERY nice, down-to-earth and welcoming. You'd never know he is a star. He mentioned having butterflies before his show and, selfishly, I felt better about mine. ;-/

Despite leaving the Gala early, sleep eluded me and my own butterflies have already arrived. I am apparently the only American here so I feel that if I don't do well it's not just a reflection on me but on all American dancers. (Boy, I really need to do something about my ego.)

More tomorrow...

Love,
Kanina